No matter how you became interested in the concept of a cottage garden, or how practical or fanciful your ideas may be, they will all embrace certain unshakeable criteria – that the garden should be homely, infor­mal, colourful and fragrant. How these cri­teria are fulfilled will vary widely and it is not my purpose to impose ideas upon the reader. I see my role here as providing a practical introduction to the concept. Pre­senting the reader with a canvas — the raw outlines and materials of his garden – then offering him the paints – flowers, shrubs and trees – so that he can create his very own picture. How he arranges this is his own personal pleasure.

It can be said from the beginning though, that no attempt to create such a garden should be made without an overall plan of campaign in mind. It is a wise gardener who makes a plan to cover a set period of time and then adheres to it as closely as possible.

The first task to be undertaken is the study of any existing trees, hedges and buildings that are likely to affect the growing of speci­fic plants or the creation of special features.

Tall hedges and overhanging trees wherever possible should receive suitable pruning in order to allow access for sunlight and the free passage of air. Buildings are a perma­nent feature, but ways in which they can be used if forming the boundary, or any ben­efits that can be derived through sheltering plants from the wind, shading those that desire it, or by reflecting heat from their walls should be thoroughly investigated.

Few plants really appreciate shade and where this is unavoidable the siting of a garden shed or compost heap can use ground unsuitable for planting. This must of course tie in with an overall plan, but the positioning of sheds and compost heaps in the shade while ensuring an open sunny position for glasshouse and frame is essen­tial. Paths servicing these buildings should be decided afterwards, not as is often the case before construction, as then the buildings are placed where the paths have been laid.

Soil ‘profile’/soil levels

Before a definite plan can be drawn up it is advisable to take a soil ‘profile’. This is broadly speaking a hole which is dug suffi­ciently deep to expose to view the varying layers of material that form the top 60-90 cm (2-3 ft) of soil and thus has a bearing upon operations such as drainage which may be necessary before serious gardening can begin.

The approximate relationships of differ­ent levels to one another and the house are also important. By taking a good stout plank of wood devoid of twists and unevenness, a handful of strong wooden stakes and a spirit level, a reasonably accurate picture can be obtained. The board is used on edge with the spirit level lying along the upper edge. Stakes are then progressively knocked into the ground at slightly less distance than the board’s length. A definite fixed level such as the back door step is taken as a starting point and a stake knocked into the ground so that the board and spirit level can be rested on both step and stake, the latter being knocked slowly into the ground until the board and spirit level show a level reading. The end of the board that rested on the step is placed on the stake and another stake pushed into the ground at a suitable dis­tance and in the same manner. From each of these stakes fresh ones can be put in level so that the overall effect is diamond or triangu­lar patterns of level stakes, which if con­nected by strings attached to small tacks on their tops will reveal the true lie of the land beneath.

Of course this method is not one hundred per cent accurate and to do the job properly back checking with the board from certain ‘master’ stakes to the others will ensure that the minimum of error is transmitted from one to the other. However, it is a good general guide as to how the ground rises and falls, facts extremely difficult to ascertain with the naked eye.

Boundaries

The boundary of the property is another important factor to consider when survey­ing the site. Established gardens have hedges and fences of varying types which it is undesirable to tamper with unless they restrict light to such an extent that it affects plants in their shadow or the free flow of air around them. Great care is necessary in altering such barriers when they form a common boundary with a neighbour, and his co-operation should be sought from the outset. On a new garden where no such barriers exist, except perhaps for the con­crete posts and strands of wire erected by the builder, advantage can be taken of the fact and suitable materials used to form a boundary of overall benefit to the garden.

Fencing panels of the well-known over­lapping kind can be used to great effect in sheltering the garden from cold northern and eastern winds, and yet at the same time provide support for climbing plants. A southerly or westerly aspect would automa­tically be available when sheltering the garden from the north and east and these may be additionally used to accommodate slightly tender plants. Natural barriers such as hedges and screens of quickthorn or pri­vet have much to commend them. All allow for the free passage of air and those of a thorny nature are virtually animal-proof as well. Additionally they are pleasing to the eye, but it must be said that they require attention in the way of clipping and also deplete the soil of plant foods within a considerable distance of their base. How­ever, I am a strong advocate of a good hedge in the cottage garden. Not only does it provide an excellent foil for gaudy border plants, but can throw up some surprises as we shall see.

Simple wooden fences of an open char­acter have their uses, allowing air and light to pass through freely, and with a cottage garden give joy to the passer-by, exposing the garden picture to view. Brick walls have the opposite effect in giving a greater measure of privacy, but they cannot be rec­ommended. The soil at the base of a wall is invariably dry, dusty and almost inert unless given very careful attention. The concrete footing often interferes with culti­vations and apart from the obvious virtue of little maintenance there is not much that can be said in favour of walling.

Move them to the cottage garden and they are completely different characters. The common aucuba, Aucuba japonica ‘Varie-gata’ presents attractive glossy foliage on a neatly round shrub, while the cherry laurel, Prunus laurocerasus, is rather more vigorous unless clipped. Both are frequently encoun­tered in old country gardens and are clearly in keeping, but I find that they are rather bold and dominating and prefer them in a corner rather than a focal point in the gar­den. Reliably evergreen and tolerant of almost all soil conditions they are often at their most useful when forming a back­ground to the garden, especially where one side is bounded by trees, for they are the best of the few broadleaved evergreens which are tolerant of shade.

The common holly, Ilex aquifolium, has a similar image and is only regarded highly during the Christmas period. Like aucuba and laurel the holly is tolerant of most situations, although it will not prosper on a severely alkaline soil. There are very many cultivars of the common holly, some of which have strong ties with cottage gardens, others that are rather bizarre and scarcely recognizable as holly.

There is that extraordinary cultivar ‘J.C. Van Tol’ for example with leaves that are a dark glossy green and almost spineless, its regular crops of red fruits being the only clue that it is a true holly. Or we can go to the other extreme and find ‘Ferox’ with its viciously spined leaves, an old-fashioned robust sort that I have already recom­mended for hedging. Its cream and gold blotched forms known as ‘Ferox Argentea’ and ‘Ferox Aurea’ look even more fierce. All are male trees and obviously produce no berries. When this is the case I feel that it is always profitable to go for a variegated culti­var. These are able to pollinate the female cultivars in the I. aquifolium group and so ensure berries. I see no reason to persist with a dull green male when a variegated holly can be grown.

Try the I. altaclarensis cultivar known as ‘Golden Queen’, despite a name which sug­gests otherwise, this is a male. Conversely the variety called ‘Golden King’ is a female. This fruits profusely with bunches of orange-red berries. Another reliable fruit­ing variegated holly is ‘Argentea Pendula’. Not a particularly common kind now, it is worth seeking out for it is the lovely old variety formerly known as ‘Perry’s Silver Weeping’, a popular name which fittingly describes this elegant beauty. Ilex altaclar­ensis is a hybrid in which it is thought our common holly I. aquifolium forms a part, an invaluable plant which has yielded two of the best variegated hollies. Both are female, the ‘Golden King’ to which I have just referred, and ‘Silver Sentinel’, a neat upright character with green leaves con­spicuously edged with cream.

The hollies provide colour and backbone to the garden during the dull and dreary days of winter and I feel that no sizeable cottage garden can afford to be without at least one. Not so the next evergreen, for I suppose that strictly speaking it is not a cottage-garden plant, although its habit lends itself readily to this art. I am referring to Garrya elliptica, that amiable Californian native which displays long grey-green cat­kins during the depths of winter giving us hope that spring is really only just around the corner. With its dark evergreen foliage and free and easy disposition it should find its way into every garden. Not only does it produce its catkins at an opportune season of the year, but actually enjoys growing in those awkward north-facing situations.

The various elaeagnus species are also known for their lusty growth and handsome foliage, often produced in the face of ad­versity. Again not widely associated with cottage gardens of the traditional kind, they do fit in well and should be a part of the modern scene. Particularly Elaeagnus ebb-ingei, a substantial, quick growing shrub with large silvery grey leaves that provide a superb foil for the soft blue and pink pastel shades of many of our old fashioned herba­ceous perennials. Elaeagnus oleaster, the common oleaster, is not as frequently encountered as hitherto. Although with a true claim to cottage garden fame, this large spiny shrub with long and rather narrow silvery-grey foliage has largely been ousted by the Japanese E. pungens and its hideous green and gold cultivar ‘Maculata’. The last is very brash and vulgar and totally unsuited to the concept that we have in mind.

I am always surprised by the scant atten­tion that we pay our taller growing timber trees. Obviously they are much too vigorous to be incorporated in any long term garden design, but many are attractive in their juvenile state and can be a real asset to the garden in its formative life. The Colorado white fir, Abies concolor, is an excellent example. A bold upright tree with a broad sweeping skirt of grey-green foliage. Under garden conditions the life of such a tree is very restricted (say, 10—15 years), but the years of pleasure that it provides more than compensate for the moment of agony when it has to be felled. Of course purists will disagree with such a practice and doggedly advocate the use of conifers which will not outgrow their positions. Those who follow this belief and want a fir in their garden will have to be content with Abies koreana.

The majority of gardeners associate con­ifers with the Lawson’s cypress Chamaecy-paris lawsoniana, the usual but variable upright growing conifer with green foliage which appears in most modern gardens. Not always in its original form, but often as different named cultivars of almost every shape, size and hue imaginable. There is the slow growing, columnar grey-green ‘Ell-woodii’ and its nearly indistinguishable cou­sin ‘Fletcheri’ as well as the vigorous green ‘Erecta Viridis’, ‘Kilmacurragh’ and ‘Pot-tenii’. There are the rich golden-yellow cul­tivars ‘Stewartii’ and ‘Golden King’ as well as the incomparable steely-blue ‘Allumii’. All are excellent garden plants and each has at least one lesser known counterpart of equal merit which deserves much wider plantings; cultivars like ‘Green Hedger’ and ‘Winston Churchill’ for example.

With the former it is probably the unfor­tunate name that has led to this lack of popularity, for although first class for screening it is also a very good specimen conifer. Of dense habit, it is liberally clothed with splendid rich green foliage. ‘Winston Churchill’ on the other hand cannot blame its lack of popularity upon its name. Nor can any fault be found with its broad columnar habit or bright golden foliage. The reason that this cultivar has not replaced either ‘Stewartii’ or ‘Golden King’ in modern gar­dens is quite baffling, for it is without doubt the best golden chamaecyparis of all.

Not all the best cultivars are medium or tall growing, for C. lawsoniana has sired a number of very fine dwarf conifers as well -splendid little fellows like ‘Minima Glauca’ and ‘Forsteckensis’. Both of these are slow growing and ultimately form dense globular bushes. The foliage of ‘Forsteckensis’ being congested and much divided, while that of ‘Minima Glauca’ is produced in neat upright-sprays arranged in much the same manner as the pages of a book. These are a rich green with just a tinge of blue, whereas the foliage of ‘Forsteckensis’ is dull green and devoid of any lustre.

Dwarf and slow growing forms are abun­dant amongst the thujas, the majority being derived from the American arbor vitae; Thuja occidentalis ‘Rheingold’ is undoub­tedly the best of these. A rich golden mound of foliage with a coppery flush during the winter. It can be rather variable, some plants exhibiting a rather coarse and open habit while others display fine feathery foli­age which grows into a neat tight ball. The Chinese arbor-vitae, T. orientalis has also given rise to several slow growing cultivars, notable amongst these being ‘Rose-dalis’. This is a strange little conifer which makes a rounded bush of blue-green foliage flushed with the golden-green of young growth in spring, but turning pinkish-purple during the winter. ‘Cuprea’ which is derived from T. plicata, also has variable coloration, the entire bush sparkling with golden-yellow juvenile foliage.

Thuja plicata has also given us the de­lightful little ‘Rogersii’. This is a very slow growing pyramidal form with crowded foli­age of bronze and gold. A first class dwarf, it does appreciate protection from searing winds or scorching sun as its new growth is rather tender and vulnerable to burning. Of course the parent of this little beauty, T. plicata, is itself very resilient, only suffering in the very occasional harsh winters that we have to endure. A native of western North America, it is popularly known as western red cedar and will ultimately attain quite a size. It has a handsome pyramidal outline when grown as a specimen and possesses the most agreeable fruity aroma which is enhanced if you run your fingers through the foliage on a warm summer’s day.