How to Review the Site in Cottage Gardening
There is no such thing as a standard cottage garden. Every person’s idea of what one should be has been tempered or enhanced by the experiences of life. Some may have been fortunate enough to have grown up in a cottage with a traditional garden, or maybe in a village where cottage gardens were a part of everyday life. For others a cottage garden may have always been a dream -fanciful visions created by chocolate boxes and jigsaw puzzles.
No matter how you became interested in the concept of a cottage garden, or how practical or fanciful your ideas may be, they will all embrace certain unshakeable criteria – that the garden should be homely, informal, colourful and fragrant. How these criteria are fulfilled will vary widely and it is not my purpose to impose ideas upon the reader. I see my role here as providing a practical introduction to the concept. Presenting the reader with a canvas — the raw outlines and materials of his garden – then offering him the paints – flowers, shrubs and trees – so that he can create his very own picture. How he arranges this is his own personal pleasure.
It can be said from the beginning though, that no attempt to create such a garden should be made without an overall plan of campaign in mind. It is a wise gardener who makes a plan to cover a set period of time and then adheres to it as closely as possible.
The first task to be undertaken is the study of any existing trees, hedges and buildings that are likely to affect the growing of specific plants or the creation of special features.
Tall hedges and overhanging trees wherever possible should receive suitable pruning in order to allow access for sunlight and the free passage of air. Buildings are a permanent feature, but ways in which they can be used if forming the boundary, or any benefits that can be derived through sheltering plants from the wind, shading those that desire it, or by reflecting heat from their walls should be thoroughly investigated.
Few plants really appreciate shade and where this is unavoidable the siting of a garden shed or compost heap can use ground unsuitable for planting. This must of course tie in with an overall plan, but the positioning of sheds and compost heaps in the shade while ensuring an open sunny position for glasshouse and frame is essential. Paths servicing these buildings should be decided afterwards, not as is often the case before construction, as then the buildings are placed where the paths have been laid.
Soil ‘profile’/soil levels
Before a definite plan can be drawn up it is advisable to take a soil ‘profile’. This is broadly speaking a hole which is dug sufficiently deep to expose to view the varying layers of material that form the top 60-90 cm (2-3 ft) of soil and thus has a bearing upon operations such as drainage which may be necessary before serious gardening can begin.
The approximate relationships of different levels to one another and the house are also important. By taking a good stout plank of wood devoid of twists and unevenness, a handful of strong wooden stakes and a spirit level, a reasonably accurate picture can be obtained. The board is used on edge with the spirit level lying along the upper edge. Stakes are then progressively knocked into the ground at slightly less distance than the board’s length. A definite fixed level such as the back door step is taken as a starting point and a stake knocked into the ground so that the board and spirit level can be rested on both step and stake, the latter being knocked slowly into the ground until the board and spirit level show a level reading. The end of the board that rested on the step is placed on the stake and another stake pushed into the ground at a suitable distance and in the same manner. From each of these stakes fresh ones can be put in level so that the overall effect is diamond or triangular patterns of level stakes, which if connected by strings attached to small tacks on their tops will reveal the true lie of the land beneath.
Of course this method is not one hundred per cent accurate and to do the job properly back checking with the board from certain ‘master’ stakes to the others will ensure that the minimum of error is transmitted from one to the other. However, it is a good general guide as to how the ground rises and falls, facts extremely difficult to ascertain with the naked eye.
Boundaries
The boundary of the property is another important factor to consider when surveying the site. Established gardens have hedges and fences of varying types which it is undesirable to tamper with unless they restrict light to such an extent that it affects plants in their shadow or the free flow of air around them. Great care is necessary in altering such barriers when they form a common boundary with a neighbour, and his co-operation should be sought from the outset. On a new garden where no such barriers exist, except perhaps for the concrete posts and strands of wire erected by the builder, advantage can be taken of the fact and suitable materials used to form a boundary of overall benefit to the garden.
Fencing panels of the well-known overlapping kind can be used to great effect in sheltering the garden from cold northern and eastern winds, and yet at the same time provide support for climbing plants. A southerly or westerly aspect would automatically be available when sheltering the garden from the north and east and these may be additionally used to accommodate slightly tender plants. Natural barriers such as hedges and screens of quickthorn or privet have much to commend them. All allow for the free passage of air and those of a thorny nature are virtually animal-proof as well. Additionally they are pleasing to the eye, but it must be said that they require attention in the way of clipping and also deplete the soil of plant foods within a considerable distance of their base. However, I am a strong advocate of a good hedge in the cottage garden. Not only does it provide an excellent foil for gaudy border plants, but can throw up some surprises as we shall see.
Simple wooden fences of an open character have their uses, allowing air and light to pass through freely, and with a cottage garden give joy to the passer-by, exposing the garden picture to view. Brick walls have the opposite effect in giving a greater measure of privacy, but they cannot be recommended. The soil at the base of a wall is invariably dry, dusty and almost inert unless given very careful attention. The concrete footing often interferes with cultivations and apart from the obvious virtue of little maintenance there is not much that can be said in favour of walling.
