Pergolas can either consist of a series of disconnected arches or they can be one continuous tunnel. In hot climates they are more likely to stretch along a network of paths to give protection from the sun, but they can equally well be used in shorter lengths, covering a single path or even a small part of one. They must be well integrated into the surroundings so as not to look out of place; a pergola placed in the middle of a garden with no obvious purpose or sense of direction will look totally wrong. If it covers a main path, or marks the beginning or end of such a path, it will take on more significance. The effect of a long pergola can be enhanced by a point of focus at the end, such as a piece of sculpture, a view, a bold planting scheme or a simple seat.

In order to create areas of shade, pergolas must be well covered with climbing plants. A single species often produces the greatest impact: a dramatic golden tunnel of laburnum or frothing masses of headily-scented climbing roses can be breathtaking and spellbinding, enticing the viewer to walk through the pergola. Many climbing plants are suitable, but make certain that any thorny ones, such as roses, are properly trained and well tied in. Pergolas do not necessarily have to display ornamental plants; they can equally well be used in the vegetable garden to support runner beans or marrows.

Depending on style, pergolas can be constructed out of brick, wood or metal. Ready-made, highly decorative wrought-iron pergolas must be bought but brick and wood structures can be home-made. When building a pergola, be generous with the width as this will narrow once the structure is covered in plants.

In formal settings, brick piers look elegant and imposing. They must have concrete foundations and it is a good idea to place an iron scaffold pole up the centre of each column to reinforce it. The wooden cross-members must be of a substantial thickness, otherwise they will look out of character with the piers. This is a solid structure that will bear a considerable weight of plant cover.

Wooden pergolas are easy to construct. Use thick timber so the framework will not only be able to support the weight of the climbers, but it will look as if it is able to do so; psychologically, no-one will enjoy walking under a structure that looks flimsy even if it is not. Make certain that the uprights are well embedded in the ground, concreting them in if necessary, so that the wind does not push the structure over or move it out of line. A more informal pergola can also be made out of rustic poles, but this will look lighter so should carry delicate climbers.

As practical features, they are mainly employed in small gardens to give the impression of space, so that the garden seems bigger than it really is. However, they can be used in any garden in a jocular way to create an amusing and witty trick of the eye.

Classic trompe I’oeils are created by painting pictures that look three-dimensional. It is possible to use this technique in a small garden by painting windows on a wall that reveal an apparently pastoral vista; this will be especially effective in a town garden where the painted scene will contrast with the true urban surroundings. Similarly, doors or gateways can be painted; a half-open gate with a glimpse of what lies beyond will deceive the observer into thinking the garden has another part to it.

Another example of trompe Voeil is the careful positioning of a large mirror on the wall of a small basement garden or other enclosed area to give the impression that the garden is twice its actual size. Again, another trick is to attach trellis to a wall so that it gives the illusion of perspective: the typically horizontal battens should be arranged so as to point towards some imaginary vanishing point, taking the eye with them into the supposed distance. This is most effective when the impression given is that of a tunnel or corridor. A further method is to use a single panel on a side wall that narrows towards the far end, again in the direction of an imaginary vanishing point, making the space look longer. Plants can be used in a similar fashion: tall trees in the foreground with progressively shorter, thinner ones behind will give the illusion of distance. Pale flowers, misty blues for example, planted at the end of a border will make the border seem longer; conversely, brilliant colours planted at a distance will draw the end of the garden towards the viewer.

More illusions can be created by painting murals, of woods for example, that form a backdrop against which the garden is viewed, but the problem with this is that a painting does not change with the seasons. It is possible to create whole borders on a flat surface, with one or two real plants in front to add to the three-dimensional effect. Three-dimensional trompe Voeils can be created by using artificial flowering plants and trees made from plastic or silk. This kind of illusion should be used with care and is only suitable for certain types of quirky garden where such materials can be assimilated into the overall style. Real statues and other ornaments such as urns can also be placed in front of a decorative mural.

In most cases, trees can be grown directly from the seeds. But, in some cases, it is easier to use cuttings. Germinating seeds to grow trees is not as easy as it may sound. In many cases, the sapling that grows from seeds is very tender and fragile and needs a lot of care and attention compared to a rafted cutting. Also, in some cases, growing trees from seeds may be virtually impossible, especially in cases of hybrid trees whose seeds mostly turn out to be sterile. Even if a tree grows from the seeds of a hybrid tree, its character may be very different from that of its parent tree.

All species of trees need unique conditions for their tree seeds to germinate naturally. Their seeds are also formed in a way that helps propagation. For instance, seeds do not germinate immediately after falling to the ground. If they did, they would be too tender to survive the harsh winter. Instead, the embryo inside the seed remains immature until the right time, which is usually the next spring. The dormancy of the embryo ensures that the genes of the tree survive the harsh climatic conditions of winter and are ready to germinate by the time spring arrives.

While the natural method of germination has been perfected by trees, humans need to use assisted methods of germinating trees from seeds. Seeds are given treatment in a one or two step process to stimulate the process of germination. The three steps include:

• Scarification: The process of reducing the seed coat seeds or breaking it down to enable moisture to penetrate and start the germination process of the embryo is called Scarification. Scarification is a process typically required for seeds which have dense or hard seed shells. There are many tree seeds that do not need scarification, and even for those that do, the process of scarification is a simple one. There are three ways of breaking down hard seed coats. They are: a) a water soak, b) a physical or mechanical breaking of the seed coat, or c) a chemical or acid treatment (not commonly used).

• Cold Stratification: By exposing seeds to cool and moist conditions, the process of the natural over-wintering process can be mimicked. This is called ‘Cold Stratification.’
• Warm Stratification: Conversely, warm stratification is a process designed to mimic the seed’s summer dormancy. Hence it is exposed to warm damp soil or mud.

Planting Of Tree Seeds

Once the treatment process is complete, the seeds then need to be planted appropriately to successfully grow a tree. The seeds have to planted at the right depth into the soil to ensure that the seed does not get underexposed or overexposed to the climatic conditions that will spur its growth.

• Before you buy roses check with your local florist or gardening center to identify which type of rose is best suited for the climate you live in.
• Roses need to be exposed to sunlight for approximately 4 to 6 hours every day. Identify an area that is well light in the morning and gets enough sunlight throughout the afternoon. If you live in a hot climate avoid planting the roses in direct sunlight.

• Do not plant your roses near a tree. Not only will the tree block sunlight, often times the roots can become intertwined and stunt the growth of the roses.
• If you are replacing an old rose bush be sure to completely remove the existing soil and replace it with fresh soil. This will ensure a proper PH soil balance.
• When you are ready to plant the roses dig a hole that is approximately 6-7 inches deep. If you live in a colder climate you will need to plant your roses deeper, approximately 8-9 inches deep.
• Before planting the roses soak the roots in water for 5 minutes and cut the root ends that are broken.
• Cover the soil with an organic matter such as manure to enrich the soil and nourish the roots of the roses.
• Plant the roses and cover the base with up to 8 inches of soil. This is to ensure that the roots do not dry out. After a week once the roots have taken grasp you can remove the excess soil.

• The first 3-4 weeks your roses will require constant watering, once every day or two days. After this period you will only need to water your roses once every two weeks.
• After 3 months you should begin fertilization with 4-5 inches of mulch. This will help regulate the moisture and temperature as well as help prevent weeds from forming.

Further Readings:

• How to Plant Roses in Your Garden
• How to Trim a Butterfly Bush