The annual grasses are amongst the most useful in the cottage garden, not only for decoration, but for cutting and drying for floral art work. Some are hardy and can be sown in the open ground from early spring onwards although in northern areas early summer is probably a more satisfactory time. Except for decorative maize, which is best raised in individual pots like sweet corn, all the other popular annual kinds can be sown where they are to flower, crowded seedlings being thinned during the summer as necessary.

I love the delicate little quaking grass, Briza maxima, with its tiny yellowish lan­tern-like seeds, and the decorative barley, Hordeum jubatum. The foxtail millet, Setaria italica, is another striking annual grass beloved of the flower arranger. It is a loose tufted plant, up to 90 cm (3 ft) high with heavy, bristly, green flower spikes and handsome, bluish-green foliage. Polypogon monospeliensis has one of the trickiest Latin names, but is one of the easiest annual grasses to grow. Popularly called the annual beard grass, it produces lovely silky inflor­escences amongst fresh green foliage.

The hare’s tail grass Lagurus ovatus, also has silky flower heads, but they are much broader and produced on stout stems about 90 cm (3 ft) high. A good drying grass, in its dwarf cultivar ‘Nana’ it is an excellent front of border subject. Maize is a bit of a novelty, but does associate well with other cottage garden plants, especially if you choose the less brash squaw corn, Zea mays, and its varieties. All have decorative foliage and cobs in which the kernels are multicoloured.

Most perennial grasses are cottage garden favourites, but need careful watching if they are not to become invasive. Especially the common variegated gardener’s garters, Pha-laris arundinacea ‘Picta’. It has a look-alike in Glyceria aquatica ‘Variegata’, which unlike phalaris is a water dweller. One of the easiest marginal subjects for the garden pool, it has boldly striped green and cream foliage which is deep rose-pink in early spring. Elymus glaucus provides another unique foliage colour. Sold by nurseries under this name, it is truly the lyme grass, E. arenarius. Nevertheless, the fact that it is a native does not mean that it is not garden worthy. Flourishing in hot, dry, hostile soil conditions it delights with its creeping sea of steely blue foliage. Its flowers are not very exciting and best removed when first seen in order to maintain a tidy appearance. Festuca glauca also has blue foliage, but in tight, impenetrable clumps. One of the easiest perennial grasses to raise from seed it is often used by gardeners as an annual.

The stipas are tall handsome characters that are also readily raised from seed. They are grasses for every garden, especially the graceful and free-flowering Stipa calama-grostis and the striking foliage species S. pennata. Both provide interest and beauty in the garden as well as being invaluable cut-foliage subjects.

However, of all the grasses my favourite must be the so-called hardy sugar cane, Miscanthus sacchariflorus. Of bamboo-like stature and appearance this is one of the most versatile grasses of all. It will grow in dryish garden soil, beside a pool or can be planted as a hedge or windbreak. There is a golden form called ‘Aureus’ and a striped leafed cultivar with green and white banded leaves known as ‘Variegatus’.

Both wood and wrought-iron arbours can be bought ready-made, but some models are insubstantial and flimsy, so manufactured units should be carefully inspected before being purchased. Arbours are also relatively easy to make. To a certain extent it does not matter what they look like because the framework can be covered up with climbing plants.

The simplest arbours do not involve any framework at all but are carved out of solid bushes or thick hedgerows. These take time to grow to a sufficient size, and they should be trained from the start to ensure an even coverage of foliage. If an existing bush is opened up it might take a while for the areas that have been cut to grow more leaves. Yew (Taxus) is an ideal material for a natural arbour but many other faster-growing evergreens can be used. It should be remembered, however, that the faster the growth, the more clipping will be required to keep the arbour neat. A suitable climber can be trained over an arbour to highlight and embellish the feature.

Wood is the most practical, versatile material to use for arbours as it is relatively cheap and the arbour can be constructed on site. Ready-cut, prepared wood is ideal for making smart, elegant structures, especially if thin wood is incorporated into the framework. This type of wood can also be used to build a much more functional, less decorative feature and, being a strong material, it will take the weight of a mass of climbing plants. The alternative is rustic wood in the form of poles; these will provide a strong but less regular framework, one that is more in keeping with rural or wild settings. It is also possible to use panels of trellis as the basis of the arbour, but these will need strong supporting posts.

All the joints must be well made and fastened with galvanized bolts and nails. Strength is important as the framework will not only have to bear the considerable weight of climbing plants but also the force of the wind. The main uprights should be well embedded in the ground, preferably in concrete.

Arbours can be used to support a wide range of plants, but particularly decorative arbours, such as those made from wrought iron, should only be partially covered. The more delicate and thin-leaved the plants, the more sunlight they will admit. Plants with open habits, such as roses, will provide the right density of cover, so the ornamental metalwork can be enjoyed as well as the flowers. Less formal wooden arbours can have a thick covering of foliage and flowering plants; this will create more shade and give greater protection from the elements.

There is a vast range of chairs, benches and tables to choose from; some are sufficiently robust and weatherproof to remain outside throughout the year, while others need to be taken inside for the winter and during inclement weather.

Permanent furniture is usually made of wood or wrought or cast iron; both are quite unyielding and may need cushions if they are to be used for any length of time. Inside summer houses, which get a certain amount of protection from the weather, cane furniture can look very effective, especially once it has begun to age.

Movable furniture comes in a range of materials, including plastic. Many of the modern designs are quite comfortable but their visual appearance leaves much to be desired. For example, folding aluminium chairs and tables are practical but generally look temporary and add little to the overall appearance of the garden, although they are useful as a back-up in case of a sudden influx of people. Traditional deck-chairs, on the other hand, give the impression of leisure and blend in well with their surroundings. Unfortunately, they can be dangerous if children are around as it is easy to trap fumbling and inquisitive fingers when putting them up or dismantling them.

It is also possible to have built-in furniture in the garden, for example, around a barbecue. Seats or benches can be constructed out of stone or brick as part of a wall, or they can be made using thick wooden slats suspended between parts of a low wall; tables can be constructed in a similar way. This type of seating will be very hard and often cold and will certainly need cushions. Much thought should go into their design and placement, however, because once they are in position they cannot be moved easily.

As well as placing seats in obvious sites, on a terrace for example, some should also be set in key positions where certain aspects of the garden can be enjoyed, such as beside a pond or a fragrant climber. Position a seat to catch the early morning or evening sun. Seats in the shade are always welcome, especially in the summer, as are those tucked away in an arbour that provides protection from light showers. Garden tables should be sited in shady spots as they are mostly used in summer for dining alfresco.

Sheds often have little aesthetic appeal but can be effectively disguised with a trellis or screen supporting climbing plants. Wood is more sympathetic than most other materials, but if you are building on a grand scale, brick or stone sheds can be constructed. Such structures can be covered with climbing plants, as can those of wood, but the latter will have to be stripped of creepers to carry out maintenance.

Greenhouses can be difficult to site. Although they need an open, sunny aspect, for visual reasons they should be tucked out of the way rather than placed in a prominent position. Wooden-framed greenhouses are better insulated, but those with durninium frames are easier to maintain.

Summer houses, either totally enclosed or with one open side, can look very handsome when they are found, nestling in a secluded corner of the garden. Make sure they are big enough for two or more people to sit comfortably, preferably at a table. Pavilions are an original and exciting alternative; they are usually constructed to cover a bench or seat and are often set at the end of a path or avenue.

There are plenty of smaller structures that can be used around the garden, partly as decorative features and partly as practical objects. Dovecotes are popular; the design is up to the individual and, although good examples can be bought, the gardener can always make his or her own. Beehives are also attractive, especially the old-fashioned white ones which add a cottage atmosphere to the garden. These can be functional – a home to bees – or purely decorative.

Follies can be built but, generally speaking, the garden must be quite large in order to accommodate them. They come in many forms including buildings, monuments and ruins. Ruins are easy to construct; rather than completely dismantling an old disused brick or stone shed, do so only partly and allow it to become overgrown with ivy and moss.